The waiting together was the ritual. People ate tofu and oranges under a tent in a makeshift cafe. Middle-aged Koreans danced to club music pumping out of the back of a truck. Infants were bundled on their mothers' backs. Men kept adding fabric and brush to a towering bonfire, to be lit the moment the moon appeared.
We stood in the cold, waiting for the earth to turn. At last the moon rose high enough: a ghost, an angel, a big hunk of luck.
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The fire billowed. (I could feel my fingers and hindquarters again). People made wishes for a good planting season, then turned for home.
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